Andreas Odenwald in Pforzheim was a wonderful maker of fine, Jugendstil jewellery circa the 1900 era. I have come across some designs by Odenwald before, but not with the highly prized plique-a-jour enamelling. This is an excellent Jugendstil / Art Nouveau design, highly stylised with those insect-like wings. I love that the original stones are still present too-matching lapis lazuli cabochon, as sometimes you see pieces where one stone has been replaced. The bottom lapis here has a lot of gold flashes, which really fits in beautifully with the gold wash over this piece.
I adore this design with its pink to blue plique and the gold wash lifting the design even further. Plique enamel pieces, signed by Odenwald too are very rare so I am sure someone will enjoy this piece hugely. It has the instantly recognisable Andreas Odenwald maker’s mark, a stamp for the silver content (partial-I think it says 900?) and also the word “Geschuetzt” for the fact it was a protected design by the firm of Andreas Odenwald.
I acquired this pendant as is, originally a brooch and with the pin and C clasp gone. It had been my intention to get them reinstated but, to be honest, when this arrived with the chain fixed to it as you can see. I thought it worked so well as a pendant, I would just leave it. If you did wish to have the pin and end of the C clasp reinstated, I am sure it would be a fairly simple fix for your jeweller, as the hinge still remains.
The pendant measures approx 3cm in height and the antique silver chain accompanying it is approx 68.5cm (27 inches) in length. Wear as a pendant or else have it converted if you prefer to wear as a brooch. It is a beautiful thing and I scrutinised for ages with a high magnification loupe to find the tiniest sliver of missing plique from one of the tiny cells near the bottom of the design. It could actually just be where the enamel didn’t fill the cell properly on creation, rather than damage. Nothing to see of course with the naked eye, thankfully. A beautiful thing!
I shall send by Special Delivery within the UK or else by international tracked and signed. The box in the images is for display only, however, I will send the necklace carefully packaged in a new gift box. Thank you. Ref:cwf
Lit: “Art Nouveau Jewellery from Pforzheim” Fritz Falk
“Jugendstil Schmuck” Ulrike von Hase-Schmundt